A cautionary tale from Korea
I’m on day 3 of a week-long trip to Seoul to see family and finally engage the local specialty coffee scene. Lots of interesting stuff!
Wanted to share a quick story before I head out to watch the Korean National Barista Championship finals…
I was having dinner with probably the best-known barista in Korea, Young-Min Lee, and his lovely girlfriend Sunny, when he shared a fascinating story. A few years ago, an enterprising businessman from Seoul went overseas and came back with a licensing agreement for a cafe that would share the name and branding of a coffeeshop that was very successful in its home town market. As is common with such arrangements, they were sent trainers and such to help get everything started, and they had enough marketing muscle to become pretty well-known in Seoul and fairly quickly.
This was also one of the very first coffeeshops in Seoul that was pouring latte art. A good bit of their renown was tied to that latte art.
The problem was, the licensing arrangement also came with the coffee, and with the roasted coffee beans coming in from overseas, freshness was a big problem, and the quality of the coffee itself quickly took a nosedive. But they were pouring nice latte art.
As it was told to me, this one shop actually became a problem for the entire specialty coffeeshop scene in Seoul, because word spread among the coffee-loving, trend-following consumer base in Seoul that… (and this is SO fascinating to me) latte art means bad tasting coffee.
That shop has since closed, and it took years for the “latte art = bad coffee” thing to fade away.
A fascinating cautionary tale, wouldn’t you say?
More from Seoul to come!
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Tags: nickcho

Comments (4)
Shawn
March 19th, 2010 at 9:12 pm
Man, I’ve been saying this for years in Minneapolis… with l’il effect.
With newer cafes touting the Third Wave latte art is popping up everywhere and, realistically, only a couple of shops have the chops to pull nice espresso.
Cautionary tale indeed!
The Knock Box » Blog Archive » you love latté art
March 20th, 2010 at 5:12 pm
[...] The Koreans, however, do not. [...]
geir oglend
March 21st, 2010 at 11:32 am
Hi there, if you get a chance check out the coffee garage/ LaCaffe. They bought my 10 Kg. Vittoria roaster all the way from Canada, they also have a Slayer and a Faema Ledgend. The email is lacaffe (at) naver dot com.
Good luck, geir
nickcho
March 23rd, 2010 at 10:32 am
Geir! I visited LaCaffe on Sunday and came home (to my aunt’s place here in Seoul) and saw your comment! Nice guy, and nice shop… GREAT pizza!
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